Category Archives: Flute Hire

Flute – 10 interesting facts

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Flute

Flute – 10 interesting facts

 

By Brendan Lai-Tong

Flute

When many people think of flutes, they think of  a transverse flute, which is typically used in bands and orchestras.

The flute has been a part of history for thousands of years and has evolved over that time into the instrument that is often seen today.

Here are ten facts you may not have known about the flute:

  1. A musician who plays the instrument can be referred to as a flute player, a flautist, a flutist, or, less commonly, a fluter.
  2. There are many different sizes of flutes within the family: piccolo, alto, tenor, bass and contrabass.
  3. Standard concert flute is pitched in the key of C, and has a range of approximately 3 octaves.
  4. Alto flute is pitched in the key of G
  5. The instrument has been made out of lots of different materials throughout history including: bone, wood, glass, ivory, plastic, resin, brass, nickel silver, silver, gold and platinum.
  6. Theobald Boehm helped create the modern Western flute. He started improving design and the fingering system of the flute between 1831 and 1847. Most flutists had adopted Boehm’s changes to the design by the second half of the 19th century.
  7. George Washington, James Madison and Leonardo da Vinci all played the instrument.
  8. Flutes are considered one of the earliest instruments and date back to Germany over 35,000 years ago.
  9. Many cultures have their own version of the instrument. For example, one of the most popular traditional Japanese flutes is the the Shakuhachi.
  10. The earliest use of the word “flute” was in the 14th century

We hope that you enjoyed these facts. Please feel free to chime in if you have other interesting flute facts!

http://blog.sheetmusicplus.com/2013/01/30/top-10-facts-about-flute/

Professional Flute Service

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 Flute Service

Professional Flute Service

You should have a flute service every 6-12 months.

In a routine flute service, the technician should complete tasks such as:

  • removing any dents from the body of the flute.
  • check all pads for wear, and make necessary replacements.
  • a small amount of shimming.
  • a full clean of the flute, including under the mechanism, removing most dust and tarnish.
  • inspection of the case, to ensure it is adequately protecting the flute.
  • cleaning and oiling of the mechanism, to keep it running smoothly.
  • inspection and necessary replacement of any worn or missing felts or corks.
  • inspection of the instrument for air leaks, and make necessary adjustments.

Specialized Tasks

Various further tasks in addition to a flute service may be required to bring your flute to full working order.

Often this would be to treat damage inflicted upon the flute, such as a dent in the body or head joint, a bent key or a snapped spring. These things can be costly to repair, so you are best advised to take good care of your instrument in the first place!

Exclusively Flutes can carry out all your flute service requirements, and any repairs such as dent removal, cork or felt replacement, spring replacement, or even minor areas of silver plating. Ask about our competitive prices.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Flute/Flute_Maintenance

Daily Flute Maintenance – Part 2

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Flute

Daily Flute Maintenance – Part 2

Routine

If you wish to keep your flute in tip-top condition, and protect the silver plating, and pads, you need to develop a post-playing routine.

When you have finished playing the flute, disassemble it, placing each piece carefully into the case.

Take your cleaning rod and your cleaning cloth, and insert one corner of the cloth into the hole in the rod, and pull through approximately 2-3 inches. Begin twisting the rod so that the cloth winds around, covering the entire length of the rod. Gently push the cloth-covered rod through each segment of the flute, checking to see if all moisture has been removed.

If you have difficulty removing the moisture from the headjoint, experiment with wrapping a small amount of the cloth around the bare end of the stick before inserting it. You may need to wrap the cloth more tightly in order to swab the flute completely, and conversely, you may find that the cloth is simply too bulky to fit into the flute. If this is the case, try wrapping it thinly, or perhaps using a smaller cloth. Do not force the cloth into the flute – this can be costly to repair if it becomes lodged. This procedure should be performed after each use of the flute, before the instrument has had a chance to dry out.

Once the inside of the flute is dry, take your polishing cloth, and gently remove all marks from the surface of the instrument. Place all pieces back into the case, and close the lid, ensuring the instrument is positioned correctly. Cleaning cloths should be stored somewhere other than inside the flute case, as this can squash the keys and cause unnecessary stress. Consider tying them around the handle of your case, or folding them neatly and keeping them in a case pocket.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Flute/Flute_Maintenance

Types of Flutes

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Types of Flutes

 

Flutes

Flutes

 

 

Modern flutes are actually made in several different sizes.

The one with which we are most familiar— soprano or concert flutes—are considered musically the most versatile and satisfactory, and it is therefore by far the most commonly used. Other sizes, however, are useful for special purposes.

Sizes of Flutes
From top to bottom:
Bass, alto, soprano with B foot, soprano, E-flat, piccolo
Photo courtesy W. T. Armstrong Co.

 

Alto flutes are wider and longer than the soprano and starts a half octave below it, on G. Its tone is very rich and mellow. Because of the larger volume of air, it requires more breath and is slower to respond. (This size of flute was previously referred to as bass, and in Europe it is still sometimes mistakenly called by this name.)

Bass flutes start one more half octave below the alto, on C. It is so long that the head joint has to be curved a full 180 degrees to allow the flutist to reach the mouth hole. Its tone is extremely deep, and even more breath is required than on the alto.

F-flat flutes are a slightly smaller version of the soprano. Its main use is for children whose hands are not yet large enough for a standard flute.

The piccolo is a small flute with a high, shrill tone. Most piccolo flutes are made in the key of C, playing one octave higher than the concert flute; another type, the D-flat piccolo—formerly popular but now becoming obsolete—plays one note higher. There are two major models of the piccolo: the metal cylindrical-bore model, which is easier to blow and has more stable intonation; and the wooden, conical-bore model, which is less shrill. Various combinations are also available.

Playing the piccolo requires a very tight holding of the lips, and a careful attention to intonation; you will find it difficult to switch between piccolo and flute unless you regularly devote time to each. When buying a student model, make sure it has been designed so that you can close all keys without hitting others.

The fingerings for all these flutes are basically the same as on the concert flute, but transposition is necessary when reading music.

http://www.markshep.com/flute/Finding.html#Sizes

Checking out a Used Flute

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Buffet Crampon Paris - Used Flute

Buffet Crampon Paris – Used Flute

 

Checking Out a Used Flute

Used Flute joints

Used Flute joints

If you are buying a used flute, the list below will help you to determine its condition. Unless you are familiar with flutes, however, I strongly recommend that you bring along someone who is, to help you evaluate it.

Or you could bring the used flute to a repair shop for a professional judgment.

Keep in mind that, although you might think a used flute is truly beyond repair, most faulty conditions can be and are corrected during a standard overhaul in any repair shop.

In fact, the best bargains can often be found among used flutes that “don’t work”—they sometimes require only a simple regulating adjustment, accomplished in a few moments.

Pads. These are the soft inserts in the keys that actually make contact with the holes. They should not be torn or yellowed and dried out in your used flute.

Springs. These should be strong enough so that the keys return to resting position with a firm motion.

Action. The action should have a solid feeling. There should be free movement of all keys on the used flute. No key “clicks” should be heard. Try wiggling the keys sideways—there should be very little movement.

Tenons. The joints should fit together snugly on a used flute, but not tightly. There should be no side play when the used flute is assembled.

Head joint cork. Try pulling straight out on the crown (the piece at the very top). If it moves, the cork inside is too loose.

Mouth hole. This should have no nicks or scratches, especially on the edge you blow toward. This repair is expensive.

Dents (metal flute). Small dents on the body of the used flute will have almost no effect, but dents on the head joint can cause tuning problems.

Finish (metal flute). The condition of the finish has no effect on the playing of the used flute.

http://www.markshep.com/flute/Finding.html

Features of a New Flute to Look For

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New Flute

New Flute

There are several features you should look for on a flute, especially if you are buying a new flute.

Curved lip plate (metal flute). This makes for easier blowing.

 

Mouth hole—average size. The two basic shapes used for the mouth hole are the oval and the rounded rectangle; either one is acceptable. The size of the mouth hole, however, should not vary too much from the average. A large mouth hole will favor the low notes at the expense of the high, while a small mouth hole will favor the high notes at the expense of the low.

Integral, rolled tone holes (metal flute). The walls of the holes should be raised directly from the body of the flute, instead of being soldered on, to reduce the chance of having air leaks. An exception is made in the case of some handmade flutes. These are normally fashioned with thinner metal tubing, so most makers do not raise the hole walls from the tube itself.

The tops of the holes should be curled, or “rolled,” so that no sharp edge is presented to the pad—this increases pad life. (Some flutes have tone holes that are integral but not rolled.)

 

Rib-and-post construction (metal flute). In this style of construction, the posts that hold the key mechanism are not soldered directly to the body but instead to strips of metal (ribs) that are then soldered to the body. This greatly increases the reliability of the key mechanism.

 

Regulating screws. These allow the flutist to make basic adjustments to the flute mechanism, decreasing the need for professional attention. The flute should have four or five regulating screws; flutes with more than five screws have a tendency to go out of adjustment too easily. Handmade flutes do not normally have regulating screws.

http://www.markshep.com/flute/Finding.html

Always contact Exclusively Flutes for all your New Flutes

Flute Types

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Flute

Flute

 

Flute Types

Though quality of construction is generally related to brand name and to position in the flute “hierarchy,” the sound and playing properties of a flute don’t necessarily follow the hierarchical pattern.

These properties are determined mainly at the mouth hole, and the dimensions of this part of the flute are so critical that no two flutes ever sound or play exactly alike. So, while it’s a good idea to buy according to name and hierarchy, you should also choose on the basis of the individual flute.

I should state here that a beginner does not need a top-quality flute. The respect due a superior instrument demands that it be reserved for someone with a developed skill and a deep commitment. Generally, you are ready for a finer flute when you find it makes a difference in your playing.

Plateau Model, French Model

Two models of the modern flute are manufactured today: the plateau model and the French model. (In Germany, Italy, and Eastern Europe, the French model is not generally available; in France, it is practically the only one used.) The main difference between the two is that the French, or open-hole, model has holes in the centers of five of the keys.

There are several advantages to this: the holes are said to give a very slightly clearer, louder sound, because the air vibrations are less muffled; some of the third octave notes have slightly better tuning; and on some notes, extra effects can be achieved by half-holing—covering only half the hole of a depressed key, in order to bend the note sharp. These effects are especially useful in some styles of jazz or in imitating various kinds of foreign music.

On the open-hole flute, when you press down one of the open keys, you must also close off the center hole with your finger so that no air can escape. This requires more strictness in the holding position, which you might consider either an advantage or a disadvantage.

Another difference between the two models is that the French model usually has a G key in line with the rest of the keys, while the G key on the plateau model is “offset” slightly. (Compare the illustration above with the Parts Chart at the beginning of this article). Though the in-line G has the advantage of “forcing” the left hand into a proper, vertical position, it is actually a somewhat clumsy arrangement; the offset G fits the hand much better.

The French model flute is slightly more expensive, both in initial purchase price and in maintenance costs.

Other Options and Variations

B foot joint. This style, available in most countries, has an extra key on the foot joint, enabling the flutist to play one note lower in the first octave.

Thin-wall construction (metal flute). The thinner walls give a higher, thinner sound that is more responsive but somewhat harder to control.
Open G-sharp key. This key arrangement is commonly found in Eastern Europe.

The lever played by the left little finger closes its hole when pressed, rather than opening the hole, as on most current-day flutes. This is the form of the mechanism that originally appeared on the modern flute, and a good case can be made for its superiority.

Find out more for your new or used flute here.

Flutes – Buying Name Brands

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Flutes

Flutes

Flutes

Flutes – Buying Name Brands

With flutes, buying by name is generally a good practice, since the reputations of the better-known companies have been built by the quality of their products. Though there may be little difference between these flutes and the lesser-known brands in terms of sound and acoustic design, over a long period you will often find a difference in the durability of the instrument. If you don’t yourself know which brands are most respected, ask other flutists what names come to mind.

Metal Flutes—The Flute Hierarchy

There is a definite hierarchy of metal flutes, based mainly on the materials used and the care with which the flutes are made. As you go up the scale of metals, the quality of construction increases, and so does the price.

The least expensive flute, called a student model, is made from nickel-silver (also called German silver). Nickel-silver actually has no silver in it at all—it is an alloy of copper, zinc, and nickel. If well made and properly cared for, a flute of this type can last a very long time.

Student flutes are covered, or plated, with a layer of either nickel or silver, to help resist corrosion. Silver plating lasts longer, gives a smoother, less metallic tone, is less slippery to hold, and can be reapplied when the original plating wears through. The only advantage to nickel plating is that it stays shiny with very little maintenance. Since the extra cost of silver plating is very small, it is preferable to the nickel.

Moving up the hierarchy of models, silver—with its slightly deeper, richer tone and slightly better “response”—replaces the other metals for more and more parts of the flute. The next step above a student flute is one in which the head joint is made of silver. Since the influence of the material on the flute occurs mainly at the head joint, this gives the flute basically the characteristics of a silver flute. The next level up is an all-silver body, and the one above that has a silver key mechanism as well.

Many times someone selling a flute secondhand assumes it is silver but actually has no idea what it is made of. Usually a flute says right on it if any portion of it is silver. Other ways to tell are: ask the original price; check the tenons, to see if silver plating has worn through; see whether it is nickel-plated—if the flute is nickel-plated, there is no silver in it.

Above the all-silver flutes in the hierarchy there is still one more large step—the handmade flutes. Most of these are made in silver, but gold and platinum are also available. Gold gives a “warmer,” “richer” sound than silver, with somewhat less carrying power. Platinum, first used because it would theoretically make the best flute material, has a tone generally considered ‘cold’.

http://www.markshep.com/flute/Finding.html

Need flutes? For all your flute needs, contact Exclusively Flutes through this link. http://exclusivelyflutes.com.au/flute-sales-new-used/

Tips on Choosing, Flute Hire, and Buying a New or Used Flute

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Flute Hire

Flute Hire

Tips on Choosing, Flute Hire, and Buying a New or Used Flute

Many music stores have flute hire programs.

Flute hire at first can give you a chance to try out flute playing, and the particular flute, without making a heavy financial commitment.

Most stores will apply at least part of the flute hire to an eventual purchase, usually at secondhand prices.

For beginners, flute hire can be a win, win situation.

The more you know about flutes, and the more sensitive you are to them, the more likely you are to wind up with the right one for you. There are a number of ways of finding a flute to start playing. One of the most common, of course, is to buy one from a music store. One advantage of this is that you can compare and choose from a variety of flutes. Many music stores also sell reconditioned flutes or demonstrator models, which can be good bargains.

It is best to buy from a music store that has its own repair facilities and one that will guarantee the flute for a period of time. Most new flutes come with a guarantee from the maker, but this can mean you have to send the instrument back to the factory for a three-minute adjustment!

Used flutes can be found through newspaper ads, music school bulletin boards, pawn shops, flea markets, etc. Some incredible bargains can be discovered this way. When you inspect the flute, however, it is important to know exactly what you’re doing or to bring along someone who does.

Or you may have a friend who owns a flute that’s not being used and who is willing to loan it to you. There’s no more economical way to start on the flute!

Exclusively Flutes will be happy to discuss any flute hire questions you might have, and to arrange flute hire for you. Please just visit our website at www.exclusively flutes.com.au, and go to the Flute Hire page for our contact form.

Flute Service

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Flute Service

Flute Service

Flute Service

You should have a professional flute service every 6-12 months. In a routine flute service, the technician should complete tasks such as:

  • removing any dents from the body of the flute.
  • check all pads for wear, and make necessary replacements.
  • a small amount of shimming.
  • a full clean of the flute, including under the mechanism, removing most dust and tarnish.
  • inspection of the case, to ensure it is adequately protecting the flute.
  • cleaning and oiling of the mechanism, to keep it running smoothly.
  • inspection and necessary replacement of any worn or missing felts or corks.
  • inspection of the instrument for air leaks, and make necessary adjustments.

Specialized Tasks not covered in a flute service

Various further tasks may be required to bring your flute to full working order, which are not carried out in a regular flute service. Often this would be to treat damage inflicted upon the flute, such as a bent key or a snapped spring. These things can be costly to repair, so you are best advised to take good care of your instrument in the first place!

After your flute service

Do not leave your flute sitting in the open air for extended periods (and NEVER on a chair!)

  • This will encourage silver flutes to tarnish.
  • There is a greater opportunity for dust to collect on the mechanism.
  • There is greater potential for your flute to be knocked over (or sat on!) by an unsuspecting passer-by.

Do not allow non-flute players to fool around on your flute.

Always wash your hands before you begin to play, and if possible, clean your teeth. Dental hygiene (especially after eating) helps to prevent sticky pads.

Avoid leaving musical instruments in vehicles. Temperatures inside vehicles reach extremes of hot and cold, causing glues to melt, or lubricants to become quite sticky. In addition, instruments are generally not covered by motor vehicle insurance, and are a prime candidate for theft.

Have a professional flute service regularly.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Flute/Flute_Maintenance